How to Hem with a Serger: Rolled Hems & Blind Hems

Most people think a serger is just for finishing inside seams. But it is also a powerful hemming machine. While it can’t do a standard “topstitch” hem (you need a coverstitch or sewing machine for that), it excels at two specific types of hems: the Rolled Hem and the Blind Hem.

1. The Rolled Hem

This is the serger’s party trick. It creates a tiny, dense, cord-like edge perfect for:

• Napkins and tablecloths
• Chiffon or silk scarves
• Ruffles on skirts
• Lettuce-edge hems (on knits)

How to Set It Up (3-Thread Rolled Hem)

Most modern sergers have a built-in rolled hem feature. You usually don’t need to change the plate or foot, just move a lever.

1. Remove the Left Needle: You only use the Right Needle for a rolled hem.
2. Remove the Stitch Finger: This is the metal prong the stitches form around. On many machines (like Brother), you pull a tab. On others (Juki), you flip a switch to “Rolled Hem”. This makes the stitch extremely narrow.
3. Tighten Lower Looper: Increase Lower Looper tension significantly (try 7-8). This pulls the Upper Looper thread all the way around the edge to the back.
4. Shorten Stitch Length: Set to ‘R’ or very short (1.0 - 1.5mm).
5. Thread Choices: For a beautiful finish, use Wooly Nylon in the Upper Looper. It puffs up and fills the gaps for smooth coverage.

Tip: Gently stretch the fabric as you sew to create a wavy “lettuce edge” on knits!

2. The Blind Hem

The blind hem is magic. It finishes the raw edge and tacks up the hem in one pass, leaving the stitches nearly invisible on the outside. It’s great for trousers, curtains, and skirts.

The Setup

1. Foot: You need a Blind Hem Foot (often optional/sold separately). It has an adjustable plastic guide.
2. Needle: Use Right Needle only.
3. Fold the Fabric: This is the tricky part.
   • Fold your hem up (wrong side to wrong side) to the desired length.
   • Fold it back securely so only a tiny sliver of the “wrong side” hem allowance sticks out.
4. Align: Place the fabric under the foot. The fold should butt up against the plastic guide.
5. Stitch: The needle should barely catch the fold of the main fabric (piercing only a thread or two) while the loopers finish the edge of the hem allowance.

The Reveal

When you’re done, unfold the fabric and press it flat. If done correctly, you’ll see tiny “ticks” of thread on the outside that disappear into the fabric texture, while the inside is neatly surged.

Practice Makes Perfect

Both of these techniques require practice. Don’t try them on your final garment first!

Once you master these, you’ll find you use your sewing machine less and less. For more foundational skills, check out our guide on The 4 Essential Serger Stitches.

New to serging and confused by the “Stitch Finger”? We explain parts and terminology in our Best Beginner Sergers Guide.