Serger vs. Sewing Machine: Do You Really Need Both?
One of the most common questions beginner sewists ask is: “I have a sewing machine. Do I really need a serger too?”
The short answer? You don’t need one to sew, but if you want your garments to look professional, last longer, and come together faster, a serger is a game-changer. However, it’s vital to understand that a serger (or overlocker) is a partner to your sewing machine, not a replacement.
Here is why they are different and why they work best together.
The fundamental difference: Construction vs. Finishing
The biggest distinction lies in how they handle the fabric.
The Sewing Machine
Your sewing machine is the architect. It is designed for construction.
- ** versatility:** It can do zippers, buttonholes, topstitching, decorative stitches, and embroidery.
- The mechanism: It uses a bobbin and a top thread to create a lockstitch. This stitch is strong but doesn’t naturally stretch (unless you use a zigzag setting).
- Fabric handling: It sews on top of the fabric. It does not cut or trim.
The Serger
Your serger is the finisher. It is designed for edges.
- The Blade: The defining feature of a serger is the cutting blade. As you sew, it trims off the raw edge of the fabric, ensuring a perfectly clean line.
- The Loopers: Instead of a bobbin, it uses 3, 4, or even 5 threads looped together to wrap around the edge of the fabric. This encases the raw edge completely.
- Speed: Sergers are fast—often twice the speed of a standard sewing machine (up to 1,700 stitches per minute).
Key Comparison Points
1. Handling Knits (Stretchy Fabrics)
If you sew t-shirts, leggings, or activewear, a serger is superior. The looped stitch of a serger has natural elasticity. When you pull a serged seam, it stretches with the fabric. A straight stitch on a sewing machine will snap. While you can use a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, it often looks “homemade” and can ripple the fabric.
2. Seam Finishing
Inside a store-bought shirt, you see neat, overlocked edges. That’s a serger. A sewing machine can simulate this with an overcasting foot or zigzag stitch, but it won’t prevent fraying as effectively, and it won’t look as tidy.
3. What a Serger CANNOT Do
This is why you usually keep your sewing machine:
- Topstitching: You can’t sew in the middle of a large piece of fabric with a standard serger (because the knife cuts the edge!).
- Zippers and Buttonholes: A serger cannot install a standard zipper or create buttonholes.
- Detailed work: Pockets, facings, and intricate corners are usually sewing machine territory.
The Verdict: Partners in Crime
Think of your sewing machine as your hammer and drill—essential for building the structure. Think of the serger as your sander and polisher—essential for the professional finish.
You can sew a dress entirely on a sewing machine. You can sew a t-shirt almost entirely on a serger. But for a wardrobe that looks high-end and withstands wear and tear, you need both.
Start with a good sewing machine. When you’re ready to level up your finish or dive into knitwear, welcome the serger to your family.
