Serger Needles 101: ELx705 vs. Standard Sewing Needles

One of the most common questions we get is: “Can I use regular sewing machine needles in my serger?”

The answer is a frustrating: It depends.

While many modern entry-level sergers (like the Brother 1034D) are designed to accept standard home sewing needles (system 130/705H), many higher-end or coverstitch-capable machines require a specific industrial-grade needle known as ELx705.

Using the wrong one can lead to skipped stitches, broken needles, and even timing damage to your machine. Here is everything you need to know.

Standard (130/705H) vs. Serger (ELx705)

Standard Needles (Universal)

These are the needles you use in your regular sewing machine. They have a flat back on the shank and a standard scarf (the indentation above the eye).

• Pros: Cheap, easy to find, you probably already have them.
• Best for: Sergers like the Brother 1034D, Juki MO-654DE (check your manual!).

ELx705 Needles (Overlock/Coverstitch)

These are specifically engineered for the high speeds and unique mechanics of sergers and coverstitch machines.

• The Groove: They have a groove on the front and back of the blade. This reduces friction at high speeds (sergers run twice as fast as sewing machines) and helps form the thread loop for the looper to catch.
• The Scarf: The scarf is deeper, allowing the looper to come closer to the needle without hitting it, which prevents skipped stitches.
• Chrome Finish: Many ELx705 needles are chrome-plated (CF) to resist heat build-up.

Rule of Thumb: If your machine does Coverstitch, it almost certainly requires ELx705.

Choosing the Right Size

Just like regular sewing, size matters.

• Size 80/12: The standard “workhorse” size. Use this for cotton, quilting weight, poly-blends, and most general sewing.
• Size 90/14: Thicker and stronger. Use this for denim, fleece, canvas, or multiple layers.
• Size 75/11: Finer. Use for light knits, rayon, or delicate fabrics to avoid punching large holes.

Ballpoint vs. Sharp (Universal)

• Jersey/Ballpoint (SUK): Essential for knits (t-shirts, leggings). The rounded tip slides between the fabric fibers rather than cutting them, preventing runs/ladders.
• Universal/Sharp: Better for wovens (cotton, denim).

When to Change Your Needles

Serger needles take a beating. They hit the fabric at 1,300+ stitches per minute.

• Change them every 6-8 hours of sewing time.
• Change them immediately if you hear a “popping” sound as the needle enters the fabric.
• Change them if you are getting skipped stitches—it’s the #1 culprit.

Summary

Always check your manual’s “Specifications” page. It will list the “Needle System.”

• If it says 130/705H or HAx1: You can use regular needles.
• If it says ELx705: You MUST use the specific serger needles.

Using the right needle prevents headaches. Speaking of headaches, if you’re struggling with thread snapping even with a new needle, read our guide on Why Your Serger Thread Keeps Breaking.

Looking for a machine that uses standard needles? The Brother 1034D featured in our Buyer’s Guide is a user-friendly favorite.