Can You Serge on a Regular Sewing Machine? (The 'Mock' Overlock Guide)

So, you’ve started sewing and you keep hearing about this magical machine called a serger (or overlocker). But looking at the price tag, you might be asking: “Can’t I just do this on my regular sewing machine?”

The short answer is: Yes, mostly.

While a standard sewing machine can’t replicate the cutting and looping action of a real serger perfectly, you can get surprisingly close with the right tools. We call this the “Mock” Overlock.

The Secret Weapon: The Overcasting Foot

If you’re trying to finish raw edges on a standard machine, your best friend is the Overcasting Foot (often called an Overedge foot).

Unlike a standard zigzag foot, the overcasting foot has a small metal bar or pin in the center. As the needle swings left and right, the thread wraps around this pin. This keeps the edge of the fabric flat and prevents it from puckering or tunneling, which is the #1 problem when zigzagging edges.

Pro Tip: Check your machine’s manual. Most modern machines come with an overcasting stitch setting specifically designed for this foot.

The Zigzag Stitch: The Old Reliable

If you don’t have an overcasting foot, the classic Zigzag Stitch is your fallback.

1. Set your stitch: Choose a medium width and length.
2. Align the fabric: You want the needle to fall just off the edge of the fabric on the right swing.
3. Sew: This wraps the thread around the raw edge, preventing fraying.

It’s not as clean as a serger, and it doesn’t have the stretch or durability of a 4-thread safety stitch, but it works for woven fabrics that don’t fray aggressively.

”Mock” Serger vs. Real Serger: The Reality Check

It’s important to manage expectations. A “mock” overlock is a finishing technique; a serger is a construction beast.

• Speed: Sergers are incredibly fast (up to 1,300 stitches per minute). A regular machine can’t compete.
• The Knife: A serger actually cuts the fabric edge as it sews, creating a perfectly clean line. Your regular machine just sews over the existing edge.
• Stretch: Serger stitches are inherently stretchy. If you’re sewing knits (like t-shirts or leggings), a standard straight stitch will pop. A zigzag works, but a serger’s loop structure moves with the fabric.

When to Upgrade?

If you’re just fixing a few seams or sewing cotton aprons, your regular machine is fine. But if you find yourself sewing:

• A lot of knitwear/activewear
• Projects where the inside finish matters (jackets, unlined skirts)
• In bulk (time savings are massive)

…then it might be time to look at the difference between a Serger vs. Sewing Machine in more detail.

Conclusion

Don’t let the lack of a serger stop you from starting. Use that overcasting foot, master your zigzag, and create beautiful things. The fancy tools can wait until you’re ready!