Serger vs. Coverstitch: What's the Difference?
Walk into any advanced sewing room, and you might see a lineup of machines that look vaguely similar but do very different jobs. Two of the most commonly confused are the Serger (Overlocker) and the Coverstitch machine.
They both use multiple threads and loopers, but their functions are almost opposites.
The Serger: The Builder
As we covered in What is a Serger?, the serger’s primary job is construction and edge finishing.
- It Cuts: A serger has a blade that trims the fabric edge as you sew.
- It Encased: It wraps thread around that raw edge to stop fraying.
- It Seams: It stitches two pieces of fabric together while finishing the edge simultaneously.
If you are assembling a pair of leggings or finishing the inside seams of a dress, you reach for the serger.
The Coverstitch: The Finisher
The Coverstitch machine has one main job: professional hemming.
Look at the hem of the t-shirt you are wearing right now.
- Outside: You see two (or three) parallel rows of straight stitching.
- Inside: You see a grid of looper thread covering the raw edge.
That is a coverstitch.
Unlike a serger, a coverstitch machine does not have a knife. It doesn’t cut fabric. It is designed to be used in the middle of the fabric, not just on the edge. It allows you to fold up a hem and stitch it down while maintaining the fabric’s stretch.
Key Comparison
| Feature | Serger (Overlocker) | Coverstitch |
|---|---|---|
| Blade/Knife | Yes (cuts edge) | No (does not cut) |
| Primary Use | Seaming & Edge Finishing | Hemming & Topstitching |
| Fabric Edge | Sews on the edge | Can sew anywhere (middle of fabric) |
| Look | Loops around the edge | Parallel straight lines on top |
Do You Need Both?
Most sewists start with a standard sewing machine, then add a Serger to their arsenal.
The Coverstitch is usually the third machine purchase. You can fake a hem with a twin-needle on a regular sewing machine, but for that professional, store-bought “sportswear” finish, nothing beats a dedicated coverstitch machine.
What About “Hybrid” Machines?
Yes, there are machines that do both! They are often called “Combo” machines. While they save space, switching between serger mode and coverstitch mode can be fiddly and time-consuming. Many pros prefer two separate machines so they don’t have to re-thread constantly during a project.
Summary
- Serger: Cuts and cleans edges.
- Coverstitch: Hems and topstitches.
Both are amazing tools for working with knits, but they serve very different steps in the construction process.
